The Phi Phi Islands. There is a high chance that you have heard about this alluring set of islands in the south of Thailand.

Phi Phi consists of 6 islands, with Maya Bay made famous by the movie “The Beach”. For years it has been on the bucket list of travelers from around the world.

When the COVID pandemic struck, suddenly no one was visiting the islands.

So as soon as Thailand opened domestic travel, I decided it was high time for me to visit.

Yes, I’ve lived in Thailand for 26 years and had never been there!

After a week of exploring Ranong town, Koh Phayam, and Khao Sok National Park, we had finally reached Phuket. Yes, we drove.

Our next destination on the itinerary was the Phi Phi islands but since the trip wasn’t for another couple of days, we took the time to relax at Prime Town Posh & Port Hotel in Phuket. It seemed like the most decent, budget-friendly, and in-close-vicinity accommodation to the pier.

Love Andaman Experience

The day had finally arrived. It was early morning and we had to make our way to Visit Panwa to catch our speedboat to Phi Phi islands with Love Andaman.

It took us an easy 15-minute drive to reach Visit Panwa pier. After parking our car, we hauled our luggage and strolled over to the Love Andaman reception area.

We were met with a great service. Smiling faces and friendly staff at every touchpoint. All customers are welcome to enjoy their snack and beverage spread – which includes water, juices, sandwiches, cookies, and even Khao Tom (rice soup). Love Andaman clearly has it down when it comes to customer experience.

I know of some tour operators that are quite cavalier with the way they handle things. Not Love Andaman though. I completely trust their team after having done a 2nd trip with them.

Pileh Lagoon

After a rough journey across the Andaman sea, we ultimately made it to our first stop of the tour. As the speedboat cruised into the jaw-dropping crystal-clear emerald green waters under towering 100m limestone cliffs of Pileh Lagoon, I was left speechless.

I had seen pictures of this place for over a decade, and I could never imagine that I would finally make it. There was just one word I could use to describe the feeling – magical. Or maybe majestic. Close enough.

  • Phi Phi Islands Pileh Lagoon

I just could not believe my eyes, forcing me to take off my sunglasses a couple of times. I even dove headfirst into the water just so I can prove to myself that I wasn’t dreaming.

Other than taking tons of photos, you can also snorkel, go swimming, or simply sunbathe on a longtail or speedboat.

  • Phi Phi Islands Piley Lagoon
  • Phi Phi Islands Piley Lagoon

Many people told me over the years that Phi Phi is overrated. That it is tormented with mass tourism. I believed them when I saw pictures of overcrowdedness. Well, with no international tourism in Thailand, it clearly wasn’t the case anymore.

While there were still a lot of boats at the lagoon and on the main island, I knew it’s nothing like before the COVID pandemic. Right now, at this moment, was the best time to come.

Next up on the tour itinerary was a short snorkeling session near the main Phi Phi island. I didn’t partake for long as I was getting a bit hungry and woozy from the entire trip (not just this particular one).

It was a pretty nice spot for snorkeling with water so clear you could actually see the corals and fish from the surface.

Also one must be aware of stepping on corals or the sea urchins here as they are not that deep underwater. It’s quite easy to step on them if you’re not too careful.

Two nights in Ko Phi Phi Don

Soon after we made our way to the main island – Koh Phi Phi Don. The tour docks in front of Tonsai seafood restaurant where everyone can enjoy an inclusive lunch buffet.

After about an hour or two, the excursion continues to the next island but since we opted to stay overnight at Phi Phi, we said goodbye to the staff and went on to check in to our hotel – P2 Woodloft.

Apart from a large number of day-trippers, the island itself was somberly quiet. It was as if it was given back to the locals and had reverted to its once quaint lifestyle and unspoiled natural landscapes.

  • Phi Phi Islands

There was a tragic side to it too, though. More than half of the restaurants and shops were shuttered.

Indian food – shut.

Mexican – closed.

Reggae bars – seemingly out of business.

Only Thai restaurants, a couple of beach bars, and a few cafes remained open. Some were doing fairly good, others not so much.

I highly recommend eating/drinking at Chukit cafe and restaurant during the day or early evening. It has a wonderful view and vibe. There is even a pool you can use that overlooks the ocean. Yes, you have to eat or drink something here if you want to use the pool.

The food and drinks are excellent. I told myself I would not order a basil stir fry on this trip but it was one of the best I’ve had, ever! The restaurant also makes really good kway teow (noodle soup). Surprisingly not expensive either. Two dishes and two drinks for just THB 400+. For a place like this, that is worthwhile in my opinion.

Hiking to the viewpoint

One of the biggest highlights of Koh Phi Phi Don has to be the viewpoint. It was probably the main thing that attracted me to the island in the first place. I absolutely love viewpoints.

Waking up one morning, tired and lightheaded, I decided I had to hike up to the viewpoint. I grabbed a bottle of ice-cold water and trekked my way up.

Surprisingly, it wasn’t that hard as some made it out to be. Sure, it is rather steep, but the trail isn’t complicated or dangerous at all. Just make sure you have water, shoes, sunscreen and a cap to protect yourself from the scorching heat.

I would say it takes about 30 minutes one way even if you go slow and steady, whilst taking some pictures. There are a couple of spots along the path where you can sit and catch your breath.

The hike leads you to the first viewpoint where you have to pay 30 Baht (about $1). It’s a nice viewing platform with a bunch of gimmicks to take photos with. I preferred not to but to give you an idea, I took a wide-angle shot of viewpoint 1. I was more interested in getting to viewpoint #2.

After another 10 minute hike along a paved inclined path, I reached the 2nd viewpoint spot. The panoramic view of the entire southern island and the dual color of the Andaman sea is most certainly worth the journey. I mean just look at how incredible it is.

  • Phi Phi Islands viewpoint
  • Phi Phi Islands viewpoint

Note: There are 3 viewpoints, each further up than the previous. The best one is viewpoint #2 though. I didn’t even bother going to the third one as a local man said it wasn’t as nice.

Partying on the beach

Phi Phi has always been known to be a party island but that those days are gone with the pandemic wiping out all signs of backpackers and tourists.

During my visit, however, there were some ripples of a party scene. Nothing too crazy like the hay days but enough to keep you entertained till 2 in the morning.

  • Slinky
  • Carlitos

Slinky Bar and Carlitos were the most happening spots featuring fire shows, music, and drinks. In fact, I made some new friends while hanging out at these two bars. It was actually perfect and just right for me. Even though I like to party, I don’t like overcrowded places.

Exploring the island

It is super easy to explore Phi Phi Don. You can walk everywhere. There are very few bikes and absolutely no cars. That is one of the reasons I love this place so much. I know many won’t like that because it means no hidden trails or spots. That much is true. If you are looking for that, I recommend Koh Phayam in Ranong.

Starting from Phi Phi Cliff Beach Resort in the southwest all the way to Blu Monkey Hotel is quite touristy. When the road becomes a little less paved, that is where all the locals seem to live. The south/southwest end is filled with restaurants, cafes, souvenirs, and massage shops while the eastern route is dotted with shophouses and village-like homes. If you walk towards and east beyond the start of the viewpoint trail, you will notice the difference.

I didn’t even get to experience the northern end of Phi Phi Don. I think there is a dirt road past viewpoint #3 that leads up to the north but I didn’t bother checking it out. Maybe next time!

According to my friend who was staying at SAii Phi Phi Island Village at the same time I was there, he said it is quieter up there with even fewer shops and restaurants.

Random fact: while wandering around, I noticed the island is littered with cats. Hardly any dogs. That was quite fascinating. Cat island, much?

Beaches

There are about 6 beaches and a bay on Phi Phi Don. Some can be accessed by foot while others require you to charter a speedboat.

  • Tonsai Pier / Beach

Tonsai pier beach and long beach are the ones you immediately see when you disembark on the island. Sadly, these aren’t very swimmable as there are too many boats and rocks in the sea. In fact, I didn’t see anyone swim here, so it must not be allowed. There is another beach called runtee, slightly up north from long beach but I didn’t get that far. I think you can swim there.

  • Long Beach during high tide

Don’t sweat it though. Separated by only a 150-200m isthmus (observable from the viewpoint), you can easily walk across to Loh Dalum Beach. This is the perfect beach to swim, snorkel, or rent a kayak/SUP.

  • Loh Dalum Beach
  • Loh Dalum Beach

Where to stay in Phi Phi Don

Phi Phi Don has 2 parts or sections. The north and south, which are split up by the viewpoints.

Where you decide to stay will make a difference in your experience. If you stay in the north, there are gorgeous luxury resorts such as SAii Phi Phi Island Village, Phi Phi Villa 360, and Zeavola Resort & Spa. These resorts are definitely higher end but you get the solitude and luxury holiday experience.

The south and central hotels and resorts vary in price range and experience. We stayed at P2 Woodloft as it seemed central to all the beaches, bars restaurants. It was also the best budget hotel for us. Another great budget hotel choice is Blu Monkey. They are located across Thailand. In fact, I even stayed at one in Ranong – very minimal but clean and modern.

Many small hotels and hostels were either closed or undergoing renovations. So you will have to check what is available and best suits your budget.

Bamboo island

After spending two sensational nights in Phi Phi Don, it was time to check out from our hotel and head back to Tonsai seafood restaurant for Love Andaman to pick us up.

Having had our lunch already, we waited for the others to finish their meal before boarding the speedboat. This time it was a larger and nicer boat. The journey was also quite smooth.

Before cruising back to Phuket, we stopped at Bamboo island, which is part of the Phi Phi Islands archipelago. We were allowed about an hour to do whatever we wanted. Swim, snorkel, explore or relax – the choice was limited but welcomed.

Bamboo island is what postcards are made of with its soft white sandy beach and crystal-clear blue waters. It’s really a cliché of a gorgeous island.

  • Phi Phi islands - Bamboo island

The island is quite small, so you could explore its entirety within the allotted time. It’s just a little difficult as the sun beats down hard on you. So, if you don’t mind being burned to a crisp, then you will love it. There are trees and shade but a little way back up from the beach.

I was able to capture some photos from the roof of the boat as well. It kind of gave me a drone-like shot of the island. Kind of. Places like this really make me want to invest in a drone (despite the ‘no drone’ sign).

well, all amazing things come to an end as did our epic Phi Phi Islands trip. Definitely, one to remember for the ages, especially as Love Andaman made it super easy for us. Well done!

How much does the tour cost?

Phi Phi Islands (Day trip)

– 1,799 THB/Adult
– 1,499 THB/Child
includes Hotel Transfer

Phi Phi Islands (Overnight) – this is what we did.

– 3,099 THB/Adult
– 2,499 THB/Child

I highly recommend using Love Andaman for tours to Surin, Similan, and Phi Phi islands. They have other island tours too but depends on the season and COVID factors.

You can contact them on Facebook to see what other tours they may be provide now or in the future.