This article was first seen on What’s On Sukhumvit
Before we get into the topic, let’s clarify that Desi is a flexible umbrella term to identify people and cultures of South Asia – namely those from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and the Maldives.
Desi culture, festivals, restaurants and events can be found all around Bangkok thanks to the city’s massive Indian community that has established itself here since the late 1800s. The Pakistani community, although a little younger, is also growing and contributing to the Desi lifestyle here.
For those coming to Bangkok for the first time and planning to live or stay in Sukhumvit – as most do – here’s a guide to how we have managed to keep a strong connection to our Desi roots over the years.
Eating Out
In Sukhumvit there are plenty of eateries, from high-end luxury restaurants to hole-in-the-wall dhabas, that are sure to cure your fix for authentic Indian cuisine.
The high-end restaurants can be quite pricey but most are good value for money when it comes to food quality and service.
A few of our favorites are The Great Kabab Factory, Charcoal, Rang Mahal and Indus, which are all located between Nana and Phrom Phong on Sukhumvit.
Cheaper places to try are Indian Hut, Indian Host and the plethora of other small Pakistani, Indian and Bangladeshi eateries found along the entire strip of Nana from Soi 3 all the way down to Asoke (soi 29).
For us and many other local Desis, going out to an Indian restaurant is considered a luxury or during special occasions as we can eat Desi food whenever we like at home.
Nightlife? Desi weddings are where the real fun is at
Although Sukhumvit and wider Bangkok have a handful of decent Indian-themed bars, the scene is not what it used to be. It’s certainly nothing compared to what you can find back in India – not so much in Pakistan, since it is a Muslim country.
In the past, almost every weekend, we would be seen at Bombay Blues or Desi Beats, which are both located in the Opus building in Thonglor.
Hmm, talk about stiff competition.
Anyway, we stopped going to these places for a couple of reasons but mainly because they became overcrowded, which directly lead to reduced quality customer service and loyalty to true fans. The owners decided it was more important to make money and attract one-time big spenders rather than to keep loyal customers such as ourselves.
Both Bombay Blues and Desi Beats started attracting an increasingly HiSo, Thai hipster crowd.
To cater to them, the music went from Bollywood and Punjabi to International and even Thai. This was a bust and deal breaker for us. I mean there are so many other places we can – and do – go when we want that kind of music and local crowd.
That’s why we look forward to weddings instead – they’re where the real fun and party is at.
If you haven’t been to a Punjabi wedding yet, then oh wow: you don’t know the meaning of a crazy night.
It’s not just the vast amount of alcohol being consumed (and us Desis can really drink without getting totally sloshed) but rather the entire ambiance that is best experienced, not explained.
What’s a wedding without some amazing dance performances? Some of them are even good enough to make it to a low-budget Bollywood film!
Husbands and wives are dancing into the night, that Aunty you once thought was a saint is taking shots with the younger generations and, of course, there’s that Uncle who approaches you every 30 minutes with some irritating remark about how he knew you as a little kid.
These are just SOME of the antics you will encounter at a Desi wedding.
Oh and let’s not forget, this is the one time you can actually dress to the nines with a s*** load of jewelry and not worry about sweating your body weight off in Bangkok’s heat.
Festivals all year around
Photo credit: Dev Mohnani
With a thriving community where various Desi groups mingle at every instance, it’s hard to miss out on traditional festivals.
Whether it is Diwali or Eid, Navrati and Ramadan or even Holi, the community always keeps us in check. Many restaurants across the city regularly throw open their doors for events and parties, which they advertise and promote through various online and offline channels.
There is even an established local Indian magazine here called Masala Magazine – the only one of its kind. They cover everything that exudes the Thai-Indian lifestyle including travel, dining, business, technology, fashion, events, and culture.
Gotta admit it, even though we live far away from our motherland, Bangkok never lets us feel that we are too far gone. There’s always something to do for us Desis here – enough to keep us grounded to our roots. Being Desi in Bangkok has never been so fun and exciting.
How do you live your Desi lifestyle on Sukhumvit? Any hidden gems we should know about?
One thing I love about big cities, like Bangkok, you can find communities of foreigners who have made part of the city their home and their community. Now that we have been living in Korea for the past two years (even though we are American) I can’t wait to go back to LA’s Korea Town and feel a little at home (well our temporary home in Korea). I know it’s not the same, but I guess it’s really interesting and amazing how communities of people from another place can come together to make eachother feel at home from far away! Thanks for sharing!
Yes, I know what you mean. Although it is a great thing to communicate with locals, sometimes the foreigners can give a unique local insight to the place too. These families have lived here for generations. I love it because sometimes I feel I don’t need to go out and discover cultures when cultures come to us in one city. Of course it is not always the same thing.
I love Indian food and wherever i go i try to find Indian restaurant to eat. If you ever travel in Tanzania you will have no problems to find good Indian restaurants!
I always love reading your articles. Do you write them Shayan or your wife? I’m dying to go to Punjabi wedding, one of my friends recently got married in India but I couldn’t make it do to the short notice. I know I would have so much fun. I also learned a new term today: Desi. Is that only used in Thailand?
Hey Danielle,
Thank you! I write most of them but a lot of the ideas and inputs come from Kanika. She does write the beauty and style ones though.
You should totally go to an Indian wedding! And no, Desi is a worldwide term. Ask your Indian friends in the US. They would know for sure. Watch the movie ABCD – American Born Confused Desi.
Attending a Punjabi wedding sounds like an amazing experience and the festivals sound fun too. Just wonderful. I had never heard the term Desi before either.
Ask your Indian/Pakistani friends. They will tell you all about it. Lots of Youtube videos on it too.
Oh and watch this movie: ABCD – american born confused desi. Hilarious.
I didn’t realize there was such a strong Indian presence in Bangkok! Although now that I think about it, it makes sense as it’s not that far. I have actually been to a Punjabi wedding and you are so right, they are crazy amazing parties!
I have never heard of the term Desi, that’s really good to know! I actually met a ton of Desi people while in Bangkok last year since our hostel was right next to a large Hindu Temple and had a really great meal with a family who explained a lot about the temple to us. I was really surprised by the amount of Indian culture I saw in Bangkok. Thanks for sharing even more about it! Cheers!
Ah I know the one you are talking about Paige. On Silom Road, right? I think there’s an Indian community almost everywhere in the world. Just like there is a China town everywhere, there is always a little India somewhere.
Wow, this is actually incredible that you compiled a guide for a specific ethnic community. I really love the approach to writing with that angle. I feel like I’m sondering a bit here, forgetting how complex the lives are of every person around the world. It’s great that you have a good scene for Desis in Bangkok. Little to no Americans in HCMC and no Filipino community from what I see. It kind of sucks to feel like an outsider on so many fronts. I can’t believe they even have an established magazine too!
oh thank you Izzy. That means a lot 🙂
It’s good to be near your kind but also be open to other cultures and lifestyles. Can’t really stick to one group in any case.
I’d love to attend a Diwali festival or go to a Punjabi wedding! My husband is a wedding DJ and I’m always like, why haven’t you gotten an Indian wedding yet? 😉
You must! If you’re in Bangkok, I’ll take you to one.
Oh and your husband should learn to mix some Bollywood music and mix it with western, it’s the bomb and he will surely be asked to play at Indian weddings.
We were in Bangkogk for a couple of days and stayed near Sukhmvit road at Ibis. Loved reading your post and how you are able to maintain the desism in Bangkok.
Wow, the fact that you put together a manual for a certain ethnic group is quite amazing. I find that angle to be an excellent writing strategy. I appreciate you sharing.
Well haha it is my ethnic group and there isn’t enough info about us on travel websites. figured it would be nice to have our perspective.